Tracey Greenstein shares her experiences as she explores out of the urban centers and tourist areas around South Africa. Read it here:
South Africa travel is typically synonymous with ‘the big five’ or stylish urban getaways to Cape Town and Johannesburg. These days, travelers are looking toward rural travel for more authentic cultural experiences. Experience the untainted beauty of Eagles Ridge Country House, a free-spirited retreat in South Africa’s mountainous, lushly green countryside.
My senses were overcome with sheer tranquility the minute I stepped onto the Eagles Ridge property: bursts of primary colors, sweet fragrances from every kind of flower, warm, dry air and the sound of silence hit me all at once. There’s an innate barefoot, no-frills mentality. The owners will introduce you to their pet tarantula and they preserve a 20-year old Golden Orb spider that sits in a sheltered web above a doorway leading outside. It’s that kind of place.
Located at the base of the Kologha mountain range on the Eastern Cape in Stutterheim, Eagles Ridge is adjacent to an indigenous forest and sits atop a sprawling bright green lawn and garden that gently slopes to a wetland bird sanctuary. The main facility is an eccentric restaurant-art gallery that serves Euro-African fusion cuisine, and many of the vegetables are from an on-site garden or are locally sourced.
Embedded mirrors are scattered on the walls and floors in different shapes and sizes throughout. In the midst of vibrant artwork, found art displays and a spiral staircase to a spacious rooftop are pastel-colored mosaic tiles that swirl all around your feet and encircle a tall tree that grows out of the floor. The art on display throughout the gallery is designed mostly by locals and many of the ceramic sculptures are created at Free Wings Art Studio, the Eagles Ridge workshop. Every few steps something new would catch my eye and I’d think to myself, ‘now what’s that?’
Sounds of the 1960′s gently play on the loudspeakers in the open, sunny space. While admiring the multiplicity of mirrors and colors I had the pleasure of hearing The Rolling Stones song ‘She’s A Rainbow’, which was perfectly timed for that moment.
Organized in a ‘village style’ setting, pathways that lead to the restaurant-art gallery are carved by trees with artful dream-catchers on their trunks and little ceramic sculptures, many of which are created at Free Wings. The decorated trees and neon-colored flowers make you feel as though you’re walking through a private enchanted forest.
A series of thatched rondavels – classic African-style cottages – are decorated with plaids, prints, and every type of textile imaginable. Bathrooms are covered in colorful mosaic tiles and intricate designs, created by artist Coenie Strydom, a South African native who exhibits his work and teaches sculpture classes at Free Wings.
Ceremonies are held regularly at Eagles Ridge by the Xhosas. A South African tribe that speaks the tonal Xhosa language, their words are communicated with clicks of the tongue. The tribe’s powerful singing voices and booming of their drums is an ethereal experience – spiritual energy fills the room as they perform various Xhosa songs, dances and rituals. They shared their ancient traditions for food preparation and cooked a special kind of bread called Umbhako, which is similar to cornbread but finished with a nice smokey flavor. No one ever knows what to expect from the Xhosas: the entire event is spontaneous and never staged.
Eagles Ridge emphasizes the full scope of South Africa: art, creativity, beauty, luxury and a genuine encounter with South African culture. See it all through native eyes and opt to dwell in the countryside.
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